General info, tips, suggestions, and options for paramotors
Most paramotors share a common design. If you cannot find the info you need below, check the specific sections of your particular engine.
Before putting any paramotor in service, new or used, CHECK THE TORQUE of the head nuts!
Assembly of a paramotor – here are the basics
Bearing condition – What condition are the bearings in my engine? Which one is the most likely to fail first?
Bearing replacement and case disassembly and assembly – Here is how to replace the main crankshaft bearings and seals
Belt adjustment – How to adjust the redrive belt on any engine
Breaking in a new engine – a new engine generates more friction than usual. It MUST be broken in carefully so it will last.
Carburetor Dimensions – by Gerry Farell – This information compares the dimensions of the various Walbro carburetors and is helpful if you are considering upgrading from the WG-8 to another Walbro model such as the WB-37.
Carburetor pre-heat system – see "Cold weather operations" above
Carburetor performance tuning – see "Performance tuning" below
Case assembly – see "Bearing replacement and case assembly" above
Choke – What does it do? Why have it?
Clutch bearing replacement – It is done in the same manner as for the main bearings (see Bearing replacement... above). Steel does not expand as much as aluminum so a press must be used to install them. They will not just "clink" into place.
Cold weather operations – Unfortunately, the WG-8 and, to a lessor extent, the WB-37 are very sensitive to both high altitude and/or cold weather operations.
Compression check – One of the best ways to quickly check the overall health of an engine.
Crankcase pressure test – The only way to be sure the main seals and various gaskets are not leaking.
Crankcase replacement – see "Rebuilding a paramotor" below. The paramotor must be completely disassembled.
Cylinder head temperature gauge – Not having a CHT is like driving a car without any gauges or warning lights. Most of the time you don't need them....
Decompression port check – Here is an easy, simple way to check whether the port is clogged or not.
Decompression port cleaning – It must be clear. Failure to keep it free of combustion deposits will greatly shorten the life of the starter.
Drips – Two stroke engine carburetors drip/leak fuel by design. It cannot be helped.
Electrical troubleshooting – How to check the electrical system of various paramotors
Engine performance issues – see "Performance tuning" below
Engine stall – see "Stall" below
Emergency engine kill system – see "Kill system, alternate" below
Exhaust port cleaning – after many hours the inside of the exhaust port and the manifold can have substantial deposits of carbon and/or lead phosphate/monoxide.
Frozen screws – how to remove them
Frame cracks – see "Metal fatigue" below
Frame information for the Miniplane – see "Miniplane frame information" below
Fuel & oil specifications – Pilots must use the correct gasoline and oil for long engine life
Fuel system equipment – What do you need to safely fill and drain your tank? Oil mix bottle? Storage tank sizes?
Fuel system modification – the FSM dramatically fixes fuel starvation and most performance issues (still in the test phase)
Fuel filter – What kind/type to use? If you choose poorly, the engine will also run poorly, if at all. Removal and installation tips. The fuel system MUST be purged of old fuel and air when changing out the fuel filter!
Fuel mixed? – Is there oil in the gasoline?
Fuel system leaks – A rare but annoying problem
Fuel system test – A more thorough test of the fuel system.
Fuel tank leaks – How to fix most factory defects.
Harness adjustment – This is for the Miniplane Top 80 but works for most other harnesses.
Harness strap repair – Thin, tall pilots routinely experience buckle breakage on some harness models. Here is a simple fix for the problem.
High altitude use – Pilots can improve performance at high altitudes and/or cold conditions by modifying the WG-8 and WB-37 carburetors.
Ignition timing – How to accurately set the timing on most paramotors
Ignition timing check – This method will give the precise timing value that 100% mechanical methods are unable to do.
Kill system, alternate – The Italians have demonstrated poor quality control over the years, including faulty cabling and connectors in the kill switch system installed on paramotors. This could be exceedingly dangerous with any engine, especially the Minari 180/200. Be sure to install an independent system to kill the engine if there is not a choke on your engine. Routing a cord from the spark plug boot to some accessible place and then yanking the cord does the job by removing the source of ignition to the plug. The engine will stop!
Leaks, carburetor – see "Drips" above
Leaks, oil or air – The Top 80 leak page can help you identify where the leak is coming from and what type of leak it is.
Metal fatigue – Pilots who put 100's of hours on any paramotor must keep an eye out for this hazardous and hard to see problem.
Midrange roughness & "four cycling" – see "Performance tuning" below
Miniplane frame information – options, sizes, side stick lengths, etc.
Mounts, engine – Mounts must be checked often. If you replace them with the Viking mounts, do not make the mistake this pilot made.
Muffler springs – Use paraglider line to stretch the springs for replacement/removal. Do NOT use pliers to stretch the springs because this will nick the tempered surface of the spring and weaken it. Here is a video on how to properly do it
Oil leaks – The Top 80 leak page can help you identify where the leak is coming from and what type of leak it is.
Overhaul – see "Rebuilding a paramotor" below
Overheating – This will destroy an engine. What causes it? How is it prevented?
Performance issues – Does your engine run poorly, roughly, or with a lot of engine vibration? This page can help.
Performance tuning – Most paramotors run poorly in the midrange (where it runs most of the time). The Walbro carburetor can be safely modified.
Piston failure – Madsen's (a chainsaw dealer) gives the various ways a piston gets destroyed with some info on the causes. Paramotors are more like chainsaws and motorcycle racing engines than any other. Paramotors use carburetors from obsolete chainsaw.
Piston ring – How to tell if the ring needs replacementPre-heat system of air entering the carburetor – see "Cold weather operations" below
Priming a paramotor – see "Starting a paramotor" below
Propeller hub info, removal, & installation – this page is particularly about the Top 80 but has important information relevant to the all hubs, especially vibration sources.
Propeller info – General information including how to correctly balance, attach, and repair it.
Purging the system of fuel – It must be done if a paramotor is to be stored for more than a few weeks, especially if you are using ethanol fuels.
Rebuilding a paramotor – includes disassembly and assembly of the major parts of the engine e.g. flywheel, cooling fan, carburetor, etc.
Redrive gear noise – it can be safely ignored. The noise will be more pronounced when the prop is rotated in one direction vs. the other.
Redrive repair – see the appropriate section of "Rebuilding a paramotor" above
Reed valves – Info on how to check them and replace them, if necessary
Removing frozen screws – see "Frozen screws" above
Safety wire – It is used copiously on all certified aircraft engines. Here are some tips on how to use (from BobMartinCo.com)
Sidestick mount protection – The sidebars and sidestick mounts will grind away on each other. Here is a fix.
Smoke systems – Pilots must be extremely cautious when installing smoke systems on any 2 stroke engine with a tuned exhaust and here is why.
Spark plug info – Meaning of the NGK part number
Spark plug cap replacement – It is not that simple if you want it to last and work well.
Speed system pulleys – pilots are plagued with the poor quality, high friction Viadana pulleys from Miniplane. What's a good replacement?
Spring removal and installation – see "Muffler springs" above
Stall – Going to full throttle, the engine stalls! What happened?
Starting a paramotor – with this technique, your engine will start with the first pull every time.
Storage – If you are storing your paramotor for more than a few weeks, PURGE THE FUEL SYSTEM!
Stuttering in the midrange – see "Performance tuning" above
Tachometer – Is your engine due for routine maintenance? Has power output changed? You won't know without a tachometer/hour meter.
Threadlock – An important item in a pilot's toolbox
Throttle cable – Cleaning, important modifications, and cruise control info. For kill switch issues, see "kill switch problems" above.
Throttle placement in the hand while launching a paramotor
Tools – Paramotor essential tool kit The list here is from Harbor Freight of the U.S.A.Torque Values – This is the Top 80 specification page which has a thorough torque section.
Tune-up – Here is how to tune up the Walbro carburetor
Vibration – see "Propeller hub info, removal, & installation" above
Walbro WG-8 carburetor – This info can also be helpful for other WG series carburetors that have a fixed main jet.
Walbro WB-37 carburetor – This info can also be helpful for other WB series carburetors that have an adjustable main jet.
Warming up – when is a paramotor warmed up sufficiently and ready to fly? When the cylinder head temperature reaches 70ºC, the fuel/air mixture is sufficiently hot enough to ensure that it is 100% vaporized and that the engine will not be fuel starved and potentially overheat. Overheating can happen very quickly!
Vapor lock – This is a serious problem with all paramotors that have the tank mounted below the engine. See our page on fuel and oil specs for more information on this issue.