Moster 185 Plus
Air box – the air box usually has an internal air filter. It must *NOT* be saturated with oil. It is unnecessary and can restrict air flow into the engine. It may be washed in hot soapy water, as needed.
Air filter – see "Air box" above
Bearing replacement and crankcase disassembly/assembly – Here is how to replace the main crankshaft bearings and seals
Breaking in a new motor – see "Owners manual" below
CHT – see "Cylinder head temperature gauge" below
Clunk – see "Fuel filter" below
Crankcase assembly/disassembly – see "Bearing replacement and crankcase assembly/disassembly" above
Crankshaft replacement – see "Rebuilding a paramotor" below. The paramotor must be completely disassembled.
Cylinder head temperature gauge – Not having a CHT is like driving a car without any gauges or warning lights. Most of the time you don't need them....
Electrical and ignition troubleshooting – see "Ignition troubleshooting" below.
Electric starter information – schematics, photos
Engine leaks – see "Leaks of the engine, exhaust, and redrive" below
Four cycling – see "Performance tuning" below
Fuel & oil specifications – 2% (50:1) oil mix 100% synthetic oil e.g. Motul 710 or AMSOIL Dominator, premium 100% unleaded. Note: the Moster 185 uses a DIFFERENT oil mix during break-in = 3.0% (33:1). Please see the "Owners manual" below. Please study the link if you want your engine to perform its best.
Fuel Filter – What kind/type to use? If you choose poorly, the engine will also run poorly, if at all. Removal and installation tips. The fuel system MUST be purged of old fuel and air when changing out the fuel filter!
Fuel line size/installation – these are IMPORTANT notes that will prevent engine fuel starvation
Fuel system leaks – (see also "Leaks of the engine" below)
General info – what is not in the owners manual might be found here
Ignition system – newer model Moster 185 engines have a magneto ignition system which is quite different than the older systems from IDM
Kill system, alternate – The inability to shut down a runaway engine, especially the larger engines, could be exceedingly dangerous. This alternate system routes a cord from the spark plug boot to some accessible place. Yanking the cord removes the source of ignition to the spark plug. The engine will stop.
Leaks of the engine, exhaust, or redrive – (also, see "Fuel system leaks" above)
Leaks of the reed valve – see "Reed valve" below
Owners manual – other than specifications, the owners/users manual is the place to go first. All owners of the Moster should read this excellently written manual.
Parts description (first version)
Parts description (later versions i.e. "dark evolution")
Parts description (later versions i.e. "dark evolution" dual)
Performance tuning – Most paramotors run poorly in the midrange due to a rich air/fuel mixture, the range that we spend most of our time flying in.
Preheat system of air entering the carburetor
Priming a paramotor – see "Starting a paramotor" below
Propeller info – General information including how to correctly attach and repair it
Reed valve – newer models of the Moster have an internal pulse port to power the fuel pump in the WB carburetor. If the internal port gets clogged, the fuel pump will not work properly.
Rich running condition – see "Performance tuning" above
RTV – e.g. Permatex Blue or Ultra Grey. Used to seal case halves, some gaskets, and surfaces. Apply with a clean finger. Forget the spout that comes with the tube. It is useless. Use Ultra Grey for sealing surfaces that may become hot, like the exhaust flange gasket. More sealant is not better. It is not as simple as most think.
Spark plug type and gap – see "Specifications" below
Spark plug installation – do not waste time troubleshooting an engine unless the spark plug is new. It must be gapped and installed correctly.
Starting a paramotor – with this technique, your engine will usually start with the first pull
Temperature, max running – 250C
Vapor lock – it is the most common fuel problem in paramotors due to the near universal location of the fuel tank far below the carburetor
Warming up – Vittorazi specifies that the engine be 120ºC before going to full throttle. The fuel/air mixture needs to be 100% vaporized so the engine will not be fuel starved and potentially overheat. Various moving parts of the engine must also be at the correct temperature to reduce wear and seal properly.
