Vittorazi Moster 185 Plus
updated May 21, 2021
As we service more and more of these engines, this page will grow. Servicing, troubleshooting, and repairing this engine is very similar to the Minari. Also, check the General Info page if you do not find the information you need here.
Air box – the air box usually has an internal air filter. It must *NOT* be saturated with oil. It is unnecessary and can restrict air flow into the engine. It may be washed in hot soapy water, as needed.
Air filter – see "Air box" above
Bearing replacement and crankcase disassembly/assembly – Here is how to replace the main crankshaft bearings and seals
CHT – see "Cylinder head temperature gauge" below
Crankcase assembly/disassembly – see "Bearing replacement and crankcase assembly/disassembly" above
Crankshaft replacement – see "Rebuilding a paramotor" below. The paramotor must be completely disassembled.
Cylinder head temperature gauge – Not having a CHT is like driving a car without any gauges or warning lights. Most of the time you don't need them.... An exhaust temperature gauge (EGT) is only better because of its quick response. It is rarely needed on a paramotor because changes in the air/fuel mixture are much harder to do than, for example, on float-type carburetor in a general aviation aircraft.
Electrical and ignition troubleshooting – see "Ignition troubleshooting" below.
Electric starter information – schematics, photos
Engine leaks – see "Leaks of the engine, exhaust, and redrive" below
Four cycling – see "Performance tuning" below
Fuel & oil specifications – 2% (50:1) oil mix 100% synthetic oil e.g. Motul 710 or AMSOIL Dominator, premium 100% unleaded. Note: the Moster 185 uses a DIFFERENT oil mix during break-in = 3.0% (33:1). Please see the "Owners manual" below. Please study the link if you want your engine to perform its best.
Fuel line size/installation – these are IMPORTANT notes that will prevent engine fuel starvation
General info – what is not in the owners manual might be found here
Ignition system – newer model Moster 185 engines have a magneto ignition system which is quite different than the older systems from IDM
Kill system, alternate – The inability to shut down a runaway engine, especially the larger engines, could be exceedingly dangerous. This alternate system routes a cord from the spark plug boot to some accessible place. Yanking the cord removes the source of ignition to the spark plug. The engine will stop.
Leaks of the engine, exhaust, or redrive
Owners manual – other than specifications, the owners/users manual is the place to go first. All owners of the Moster should read this excellently written manual.
Parts description (first version)
Parts description (later versions i.e. "dark evolution")
Parts description (later versions i.e. "dark evolution" dual)
Performance tuning – Most paramotors run poorly in the midrange due to a rich air/fuel mixture, the range that we spend most of our time flying in.
Preheat system of air entering the carburetor
Priming a paramotor – see "Starting a paramotor" below
Propeller info – General information including how to correctly attach and repair it
Reed valve problems – newer models of the Moster have an internal pulse port to power the fuel pump in the WB carburetor. If the internal port gets clogged, the fuel pump will not work properly.
Rich running condition – see "Performance tuning" above
RTV – e.g. Permatex Blue or Ultra Grey. Used to seal case halves, some gaskets, and surfaces. Apply with a clean finger. Forget the spout that comes with the tube. It is useless. Use Ultra Grey for sealing surfaces that may become hot, like the exhaust flange gasket. More sealant is not better. It is not as simple as most think.
Spark plug installation – do not waste time troubleshooting an engine unless the spark plug is new. It must be gapped and installed correctly.
Starting a paramotor – with this technique, your engine will start with the first pull every time.
