Miniplane Top 80 – engine, prop, and frame technical information

A. Troubleshooting your engine – Here are the steps and information to solve any problem with your paramotor.

B. Top 80 parts diagrams engine  redrive  redrive before 2004  exhaust  starter assy  WG-8 carb (go to Mecafly for parts identification)

C. If you need us to repair your engine, please see these important instructions.

From Had Robinson

Gear and wheel pullers should never be used when working with aluminum engine parts or housings!

Before putting any paramotor in service, new or used, CHECK THE TORQUE of the head nuts!

SPECIFICATIONS – Gaps, torque values, dimensions, timing value, and maintenance intervals for the Top 80.

AVGAS – see "Fuel & oil specifications" below

Bearing condition – What condition are the bearings in my engine?  Which one is the most likely to fail first?

Bearing replacement and case disassembly and assembly – Here is how to replace the main crankshaft bearings and seals

Breaking in the Top 80 – A new motor will last longer if properly broken in.

Carburetor – Walbro WG-8 information, adjustment, & repair

Case assembly – see "Bearing replacement and case assembly" above

CHT – see "Cylinder head temperature gauge" below

Clutch – This page also includes how to properly mount the redrive so that clutch does not drag.

Clutch bearing replacement – It is done in the same manner as for the main bearings (see Bearing replacement... above).  Steel does not expand
     as much as aluminum so a press MUST be used to install the clutch bearings.  They will not just "clink" into place.

Cold weather operations – Unfortunately, the WG-8 and, to a lessor extent, the WB-37 are very sensitive to both high altitude and/or cold weather operations.

Cooling box fins – They eventually will break off from intense engine vibration.  Here is the fix.

Cooling box – removal and assembly – see cooling box removal

Cooling fan – it is integral to the cooling box and is removed with it.  See "Cooling box" above.

Cooling shroud – When replacing the cooling shroud, put copious amounts of RTV between the large washers on the cylinder head studs and shroud.  This will help cut down the wear of the shroud at these points due to severe engine vibration.

Compression check – One of the best ways to quickly check the overall health of an engine.

Crankcase pressure test – The only way to be sure the main seals and various gaskets are not leaking.

Cruise control – Not a good idea and here is why.

Note: In previous editions of these pages, I sometimes mistook "cylinder head" for "cylinder".  It has been corrected.  I apologize for any
inconvenience or confusion it may have caused. – Had

Cylinder gasket installation – see "Squish" below

Cylinder head & piston notes – when doing the 100 hour required top end maintenance

Cylinder head "O" ring gasket installation – NEVER REUSE A CYLINDER HEAD "O" RING

Cylinder head temperature gauge – Not having a CHT is like driving a car without any gauges or warning lights. Most of the time you don't need them....

Cylinder honing – Cylinders that are lightly worn can be honed and the piston ring replaced.

Cylinder piston sizes – This is a table of the piston sizes (letters) for the corresponding cylinder diameter after boring or honing.

Cylinder replacement, new – See "Determining the correct size of gasket to use" and follow the directions.  If a compression check gives a value less than 90% of specifications, replace the cylinder including the piston and ring.  Also, see "rebuilding 2-cycle engines" below for more general info.  Instead of replacement, pilots may have their cylinders bored and honed at this shop (RB Designs).  You will have to measure the cylinder diameter with a micrometer, determine the correct oversized piston needed, get it from Miniplane-USA, and send it all in to RB Designs.

Cylinder squish – See "Squish" below

De-carbonizing a two stroke engine – It must be done often enough to prevent overheating.

Detonation – This is a serious problem caused by cheap gasoline while running engines near sea level.  Use AVGAS  or premium ethanol-free fuel whenever possible in order to prevent this problem.  Incorrect ignition timing and too little cylinder squish can also cause detonation.

Disassembly of the Top 80 – see "Engine overhaul" below

Engine mounts – see "Mounts, engine" below

Electrical troubleshooting – How to check the electrical system in the Top 80 and other paramotors

Engine oil leaks – see "Redrive leaks" below

Engine rebuild – See "Rebuilding 2-cycle engines" below

Engine stall – Sudden engine stall when full throttle is applied can have various causes.  Study the 2nd paragraph in the throttle shaft play page.

Exhaust port gasket, nuts, and springs – How to install the gasket correctly and then properly tighten the nuts and springs.

Exhaust port leaks – see "Redrive leaks" below

Exhaust port repair tool – If the cylinder exhaust port is damaged, this tool can repair it.  Here is how to do it.

Exhaust problems – Rarely, the muffler can get clogged (from Bill Stoll)

Exhaust system springs – How to remove and install them correctly.  Note: for a while Miniplane supplied springs which constantly broke.

Fading – see "Performance Issues" below

Finger screw and starter pawl installation and removal

Finger screw modification – Every time the cooling fan is removed, the finger screws should be replaced ($$$).  Here is how to re-use them.

Frame cracking – see "Metal fatigue" below

Fuel & oil specifications – 2% (50:1) full or semi-synthetic oil with premium MOGAS or AVGAS

Fuel filter – A high quality filter is essential for long engine life and performance

Fuel lines – Pure silicone grease is needed to aid installation otherwise the lines may split.  For sizes and type, see Specifications

Fuel mixed? – Is there oil in the gasoline?

Fuel system leaks – If air finds its way into the fuel system piping/filters, the engine can be damaged from fuel starvation.  These leaks must be fixed!

Fuel system quick test – See the "Quick fuel system test"

Fuel system test – A more thorough test of the fuel system.

Fuel tank cap leaks – How to find and fix the factory defects which make it hard to prime the fuel system.

Gearbox – see "redrive" below

Gudgeon pin circlips – see "Piston wrist pin circlips" below

Harness adjustment

Harness strap repair – Thinner pilots routinely have the buckles break.  Here is how to easily fix the problem.

High altitude use – How to tune your Top 80 for use at high altitudes (part of the WG-8 carburetor page).

Hub – see "Propeller hub info, removal & installation" below

Ignition coil check – see "Electrical troubleshooting" below

Ignition coil, flywheel gap adjustment

Ignition coil, loose inner coil – when it becomes loose/detached from the iron core and how to repair it

Ignition coil replacement

Ignition coil, secondary wire replacement – This is the most common point of failure in the ignition system in all but the newest models

Ignition coil secondary wire troubleshooting – see "Electrical troubleshooting" below

Ignition timing – How to accurately set the timing on most paramotors

Ignition timing check – This method will give a precise timing value that other methods are unable to do.

Ignition troubleshooting – see "Electrical troubleshooting" above

Kill switch problems

Knocking – See "Detonation" above

Leaks, fuel – see "Fuel tank leaks" or "Fuel system leaks" above.

Leaks, oil – see "Redrive leaks" below

Main bearing seals – If they leak slightly after 100's of hours of use, it only causes a little mess and is to be expected.  Leave them alone.

Metal fatigue – Pilots who put 100's of hours on any paramotor must keep an eye out for this hazardous and hard to see problem.

Miniplane frame information – options, sizes, side stick lengths, etc.

Mounts, rubber (engine) – Here is a way to quickly check them.  These are normal consumable parts that fail with use.

Muffler problems – see "Exhaust problems" above

Muffler springs – see "Exhaust system springs" above

Net stringing – see "Safety net stringing" below

Net repair – see "Safety net repair" below

Net wear – see "Safety net wear" below

Oil leaks – see "Redrive leaks" below

Oil specifications for the Top 80 – see "Fuel & oil specifications" above

Overhaul – see "Rebuilding a paramotor" below

Overheating – This will destroy an engine.  What causes it?  How is it prevented?

Packing the Top 80 for shipment  (If you wish to ship your engine to us, also follow these instructions)

Performance issues – Does your engine run poorly, if at all?  This page can help.  Also, see the WG-8 carburetor page.

Performance tuning – Most paramotors run poorly in the midrange, the range that we spend most of our time flying in.

Piston wrist pin circlips (springs) – Never reuse them.  See this video for how to remove or install them.  Stuff a rag in the
     crankcase so in case you drop one, it does not disappear in the guts of the crankshaft.  Be certain that the circlip is completely seated and installed
     with circlip opening facing down.  This helps insure that the clips do not come out.

Piston replacement – It is not advisable to attempt this without intermediate mechanical skills.  See "Rebuilding a paramotor" below.

Piston Ring – How to remove and install it and tell if it needs replacement.

Piston sizes – see "Cylinder piston sizes" above

Power loss – see "Performance issues" above

Priming the fuel system on a paramotor – see "Starting your paramotor" below

Propeller hub info, removal & installation – Note: Damaged hubs will cause severe vibration!

Propeller info – General information including how to correctly attach and repair it.  A propeller strike can also deform the hub – it must be checked.

Propeller bolt shear problems – Read the info above (Propeller Info).  Also, see "T-Nut Milling Tool" below.

Propeller shaft seal replacement – Here is how to quickly and easily replace the seal without taking the redrive apart.

Pulley, starter – see "Starter pulley" below

Rebuilding a paramotor – a complete guide to rebuilding the Top 80 and other (2) stroke engines

Redrive alignment – see the clutch page.

Redrive clutch – see "clutch" above.  The redrive contains a clutch and a set of reduction gears.

Redrive hub removal and installation – see "Propeller hub and removal installation" above

Redrive removal and installation – see the clutch page.

Redrive fill plug – see "Redrive leaks" below.  The plug can become clogged and cause leaks in the redrive

Redrive leaks – is it a leak from the redrive, the exhaust port, or from an engine crankshaft seal?

Redrive mounting and alignment – see the clutch page.

Redrive mounting stud failure – Stainless steel is inferior to class 12.9 steel hardware.  The former will fail on engines with many hours.

Redrive lubricant – Info on the correct type, quantity, and how to change.

Redrive overhaul

Redrive seal replacement – see "Propeller shaft seal replacement" above

Reed valve – Note: A loose reed valve body or clogged ports will affect the fuel pump.  The mounting screws must be torqued to the correct value.

RTV – e.g. Permatex Blue or Ultra Grey.  Used to seal case halves, some gaskets, and surfaces.  Apply with clean fingers.  Forget the spout that comes with the tube.  It is useless.  Use Ultra Grey for sealing surfaces that may become hot, like the exhaust flange gasket.  MORE SEALANT IS NOT BETTER!

Rubber mounts – see "Mounts, rubber" above

Safety net new installation or replacement

Safety net wear – How to minimize wear and tear on the safety net

Sand damage – It is fun to fly at the beach but taking off in the sand one time is worse than 100 hours of normal running time because sand gets
into the engine.  The fine grit can also cause the piston ring to stick, causing more damage.  Always launch from grass.  If it is wet, all the better.

Secondary wire replacement – see "Coil secondary wire replacement" above.

Secondary wire troubleshooting – see "Electrical troubleshooting" above

Sidestick mount protection – The sidebars and sidestick mounts will grind away on each other.  Here is a fix.

Smoke systems – Pilots must be extremely cautious when installing smoke systems on any 2 cycle engine with a tuned exhaust and here is why.

Spark plug cap replacement – It is not that simple if you want it to last and work well.

Spark plug info – Meaning of the NGK part numbers

Spark plug installation

Spark plug reading – How to do it.  A cylinder head temperature gauge (CHT) is essential and will confirm what the observed condition of the
     park plug.  Also see "Electrical troubleshooting" above.

Spark plug specifications – go to "SPECIFICATIONS" below

SPECIFICATIONS – Dimensions, torque values, maintenance intervals, and other useful information

Springs, muffler – see "Exhaust system springs" above

Squish – Pilots must get the correct size cylinder gasket to prevent overheating, detonation (knock), and engine damage.

Stall – see "Engine stall" above

Starter cord – How to replace it.  See Mark Kubisch's notes below

Starter pawl and finer screw installation – see "Finger screw and starter pawl installation and removal" above

Starter pulley – The OEM Viadana pulley quickly wears out and fails.  Here is the solution...

Starter replacement cord – This cord is 100% Dyneema line and is superior to the OEM cord.

Starter – How to properly disassemble and lubricate the starter and tips on how to help it last longer.

Starting your paramotor – Start your engine the first pull, every time.  Here is the secret on how to correctly prime the carburetor.

Storage – If you are storing your paramotor for more than a few weeks, PURGE THE FUEL SYSTEM!

Stress cracking of the engine frame and other components – see "Mounts, rubber" above

Tachometer – Is your engine due for routine maintenance?  Has power output changed?  You won't know without a tachometer/hour meter.

T-Nut milling tool – Installing T-Nuts will beef-up the propeller-hub mounting system.  It is Miniplane's response to the rumor-mills on the PPG blogs.

Threadlock – An important item in a pilot's toolbox

Throttle cable – Cleaning, lubrication, important modifications, and cruise control info.  For kill switch issues, see "kill switch problems" above.

Throttle return spring replacement – Improve throttle response, lessen hand fatigue with this modification/replacement.

Timing, checking the value – see "Ignition timing check" above

Timing the Top 80 – See "Ignition timing" above

Tools – Paramotor essential tool kit

Torque values – go to "SPECIFICATIONS" above

Troubleshooting the engine – see "Performance issues" above

Tune-up – Here is how to tune up the Walbro carburetor

Vapor lock – This is a serious problem with all paramotors that have the tank mounted below the engine.  See our page on fuel and oil specs for more information on this issue.

Vibration – Vibration is most often caused by an unbalanced propeller (especially wooden ones), misaligned redrive, or, most often, a damaged hub from a propeller strike.

Walbro WG-8 carburetor – see "carburetor" above

Weight – 20.7 kg (45.5 lb) all up weight minus fuel

Wrist pin circlips –see "Piston wrist pin circlips" above

From Miniplane-USA

Parts – Miniplane-USA has excellent stock of everything and the best service.  This site (in French) has detailed diagrams and information on every part in the Top 80 engine so that you can order the parts you need accurately.  It is also handy when repairing the Top 80.  "Where does this part go?" WARNING: Some of the part diagrams have errors in parts placement so caution is advised.

From Miniplane Italy

Disassembly of the Top 80 – Part 1  Part 2  Somewhat detailed video on how to take apart the Top 80 properly.  It does not include disassembly of the motor itself (cylinder, head, reed valves, clutch, redrive).  If the motor needs additional disassembly, see the respective notes on this page.

Features of the Miniplane (from Miniplane)

Official website for operation & maintenance – it is now in English and kept mostly current by Miniplane.  Note: the English version of this site may not be online at times.  Go here for Miniplane's professional service information.  These sites are quirky, have poor English, and are often out of date.

From Mark Kubisch

Service Notes – These include redrive overhaul for older grease filled units (including lubricant replacement) & pull start cord replacement.  When reassembling the cases, use grey type RTV sealantMark's technique for removing the propeller hub will damage it.  Remove the hub with heat, as shown on this page.  Also, bearings will simply drop out of case halves if proper heat is used.  There is never any need to pry on anything with screwdrivers if the proper tools are used.

Pullers should never be used when working with aluminum.

When removing the main gear, do not let anything metal come in contact with the case half.  Thin pieces of wood can be used to protect things.  The small pinion should easy slide off the shaft and does not need to be pulled.  Removing the bearings is easy.

From Alex Varv

De-carbonizing a two stroke engine

Turkey Vulture

USHPA
USPPA