General info, tips, suggestions, and options for paramotors
Most paramotors share a common design. If you cannot find the info you need below, check the specific sections of your particular engine.
Before putting any paramotor in service, new or used, CHECK THE TORQUE of the head nuts!
Assembly of a paramotor – here are the basics
Bearing condition – What condition are the bearings in my engine? Which one is the most likely to fail first?
Bearing replacement and case disassembly and assembly – Here is how to replace the main crankshaft bearings and seals
Belt adjustment – How to adjust the redrive belt on any engine
Breaking in a new engine – a new engine generates more friction than usual. It MUST be broken in carefully so it will last.
Carburetor Dimensions – by Gerry Farell – This information compares the dimensions of the various Walbro carburetors and is helpful if you are considering upgrading from the WG-8 to another Walbro model such as the WB-37.
Carburetor performance tuning – see "Performance tuning" below
Case assembly – see "Bearing replacement and case assembly" above
Clutch bearing replacement – It is done in the same manner as for the main bearings (see Bearing replacement... above). Steel does not expand
as much as aluminum so a press must be used to install them. They will not just "clink" into place.
Cold weather operations – Unfortunately, the WG-8 and, to a lessor extent, the WB-37 are very sensitive to both high altitude and/or cold weather operations.
Compression check – One of the best ways to quickly check the overall health of an engine.
Crankcase pressure test – The only way to be sure the main seals and various gaskets are not leaking.
Cylinder head temperature gauge – Not having a CHT is like driving a car without any gauges or warning lights. Most of the time you don't need them....
De-carbonizing a two stroke engine – Alex Varv shows how to do it without removing the cylinder
Engine performance issues – see "Performance tuning" below
Emergency engine kill system – see "Kill system, alternate" below
Frame cracks – see "Metal fatigue" below
Frame information for the Miniplane – see "Miniplane frame information" below
Fuel & oil specifications – Pilots must use the correct gasoline and oil for long engine life
Fuel system equipment – What do you need to safely fill and drain your tank? Oil mix bottle? Storage tank sizes?
Fuel filter – Unfortunately, the fuel filters that auto stores stock are poor quality. Here is the information you need.
Fuel mixed? – Is there oil in the gasoline?
Fuel system leaks – A rare but annoying problem
Fuel system test – A more thorough test of the fuel system.
Fuel tank leaks – How to fix most factory defects.
Harness adjustment – This is for the Miniplane Top 80 but works for most other harnesses.
Harness strap repair – Thin, tall pilots routinely experience buckle breakage on some harness models. Here is a simple fix for the problem.
High altitude use – Pilots can improve performance at high altitudes and/or cold conditions by modifying the WG-8 and WB-37 carburetors.
Ignition timing – How to accurately set the timing on most paramotors
Ignition timing check – This method will give the precise timing value that 100% mechanical methods are unable to do.
Kill system, alternate – The Italians have demonstrated poor quality control over the years, including faulty cabling and connectors in
the kill switch system
installed on paramotors. This could be exceedingly dangerous with any engine, especially the Minari 180/200. Be sure to install an independent system
to kill the engine if there is not a choke on your engine. Routing a cord from the spark plug boot to some accessible place and then yanking the cord
does the job by removing the source of ignition to the plug. The engine will stop!
Leaks, oil or air – The Top 80 leak page can help you identify where the leak is coming from and what type of leak it is.
Metal fatigue – Pilots who put 100's of hours on any paramotor must keep an eye out for this hazardous and hard to see problem.
Midrange performance issues – see "Performance tuning" below
Miniplane frame information – options, sizes, side stick lengths, etc.
Mounts, engine – Mounts must be checked often. If you replace them with the Viking mounts, do not make the mistake this pilot made.
Muffler springs – Use paraglider line to stretch the
springs for replacement/removal. Do NOT use pliers to
stretch the springs because
this will nick the tempered surface of the spring and weaken it. Here is a video on how to properly do it
Oil leaks – see "Leaks, oil" above
Overhaul – see "Rebuilding 2 cycle engines" below
Overheating – This will destroy an engine. What causes it? How is it prevented?
Performance issues – Does your engine run poorly, roughly, or with a lot of engine vibration? This page can help.
Performance tuning – Most paramotors run poorly in the midrange (where it runs most of the time). The Walbro carburetor can be safely modified.
Piston ring – How to tell if the ring needs replacement
Priming a paramotor – see "Starting a paramotor" below
Propeller hub removal & installation – how to get it off and on without wrecking it.
Propeller Info – General information including how to correctly balance, attach, and repair it.
Rebuilding 2 cycle engines – When is it time? This general and helpful article
from Utah Motor Trails can help you decide and gives the basics on how
to do it. The upper connecting rod bearing in a well-taken care of engine will likely be the first part to fail. Here are some good tips from MCB
Performance on rebuilding two-stroke engines. Splitting open the engine case is a very technical job and requires special tools that will not
destroy the case halves. Go to this page for information on how to remove and re-install bearings and the correct way to seal the case halves.
Reed valves – Info on how to check them and replace them, if necessary
Sidestick mount protection – The sidebars and sidestick mounts will grind away on each other. Here is a fix.
Smoke systems – Pilots must be extremely cautious when installing smoke systems on any 2 cycle engine with a tuned exhaust and here is why.
Spark plug info – Meaning of the NGK part number
Spark plug cap replacement – It is not that simple if you want it to last and work well.
Speed system pulleys – pilots are plagued with the poor quality, high friction Viadana pulleys from Miniplane. What's a good replacement?
Spring removal and installation – see "Muffler springs" above
Starting a paramotor – with this technique, your engine will start with the first pull every time.
Storage – If you are storing your paramotor for more than a few weeks, PURGE THE FUEL SYSTEM!
Stuttering in the midrange – see "Performance tuning" above
Tachometer – Is your engine due for routine maintenance? Has power output changed? You won't know without a tachometer/hour meter.
Threadlock – An important item in a pilot's toolbox
Throttle cable – Cleaning, important modifications, and cruise control info. For kill switch issues, see "kill switch problems" above.
Throttle placement in the hand while launching a paramotor
Tools – Paramotor essential tool kit The list here is from Harbor Freight of the U.S.A. If you live elsewhere, you may pay a lot more for these tools.Torque Values – This is the Top 80 specification page which has a thorough torque section.
Tune-up – Here is how to tune up the Walbro carburetor
Walbro WG-8 carburetor – This info can also be helpful for other models that have a fixed main jet.
Walbro WB-37 carburetor – This info can also be helpful for other models that have an adjustable main jet.
Vapor lock – This is a serious problem with all paramotors that have the tank mounted below the engine. See our page on fuel and oil specs for more information on this issue.