Minari 180 & 200 specifications, torque, & maintenance
Before putting any paramotor in service, new or used, CHECK THE TORQUE of the head nuts!
Clutch, bearings, manual start – inner bearing 17x35x10 SKF 6003 2RSH C3; outer bearing 15x32x9 SKF 16002-2Z (these bearings are better than OEM)
Cylinder gasket squish – 1.3mm -1.5mm (0.051"-0.59")
Cylinder head maximum temperature – see "Engine cylinder head maximum temperature" below
Engine compression – 90 psi at sea level; 4,000' MSL 80 psi. These values are approximate. Pressures are low because of the decompression port.
Engine cylinder head maximum temperature – 200ºC - 220ºC (390ºF - 428ºF) The engine will be destroyed if it is run at temperatures higher than this for more than a few minutes! Note: when the cylinder wall temperature exceeds 180ºC, the lubricating properties of the oil quickly deteriorate. Minari allows 220ºC-260ºC but I do not recommend operating at these temperatures.
Engine 180, general information (from Minari)
Engine 200, general information (from Minari)
Engine, main bearings
- pulley side: KOYO 83A915-SH2-9TC4 25x55x15 (this is a typical motorcycle engine bearing, high quality)
- flywheel side: ORS 6304 C3 20x52x15 or, better, KOYO 6304 C3 (a medium duty bearing)
Engine, main seals, dual lip – pulley side NAK TF 25x47x7; flywheel side NAK TF 20x47x7 – SEALS MUST BE IDENTICAL TO THE NAK TF!!
Engine, pulley – Use Top 80 clutch puller w 6mm bolts and 8mm flange nuts under the bolt heads to remove. Heat not necessary.
Engine 180, parts diagram (non-clutched engine)
Engine 200, parts diagram (clutched engine)
Engine, piston-cylinder clearance – 0.04mm - 0.10mm (.002" - .004") Example of how to measure piston-cylinder clearance
Engine, ring gap – 0.45mm - 0.55mm (.018" - .022")
Engine RPM, maximum – 8,000-8,300
Engine temperature – see "Engine cylinder head maximum temperature" above
Exhaust nuts – these nuts are prone to loosening. Use RED threadlock on them and torque to the correct value (see "Torque values" below)
Head temperature maximum – see "Engine cylinder head maximum temperature" above
Ignition, coil – many models IDM #150 (same as Top 80), coil must be installed with wiring facing out. Some models use the more advanced IDM coil powered by a magneto.
Ignition coil primary resistance – 1.1 Ohms (but not zero)
Ignition coil resistance + OEM secondary wire resistance – 17.5K Ohms ±10%. With our secondary kit installed, the value will be 8.8K Ohms ±10%. Note: Minari, like Miniplane as of 2018, now uses the better ignition coil supplied by IDM. The new secondary wire resistance is <15 Ohms which is the same as the secondary wire we supply in our replacement kits. RATHER THAN MEASURE RESISTANCE WHICH CAN VARY FROM MODEL TO MODEL, TEST THE SPARK.
Ignition coil secondary resistance – 8K Ohms ±10% (depends on model) Measure with a needle stuck into the secondary wire right where it comes out of the coil. See the paragraph above for a better way to test the ignition system.
Ignition coil to flywheel gap – 0.38mm (0.015")
Ignition timing – clutched engines 15-16º BTDC; non-clutched engines 18-19º BTDC.
Parts diagram – see "Engine, Parts diagram" above
Piston ring gap – see "Engine, ring gap" above
Propeller bolts – qty (6) 55mm x M8 70mm x M8 90mm x M8 depending on the propeller construction.
RPM maximum – see "Engine RPM, maximum" above
Spark plug – NGK BR8ES (cold weather); BR9ES (hot weather) This spark plug is a resistor type in order to help suppress ignition noise. The B8ES or B9ES can also be used without any problems but you may notice more radio interference.
Spark plug gap – 0.7mm-0.9mm (0.027" - 0.035") Always set the gap to the minimum. Electric start engines do not spin the flywheel fast enough to generate the typical 20KV spark but only a 5KV spark which needs the lesser gap. The greater value is the maximum value, not the range. You cannot gap the plug correctly without a wire-type gauge!
Speed system pulley – Harken H404 (superior to any of the OEM brands, especially Viadana)
Starter cord pulleys – Harken 082 (superior to the OEM Viadana)
Temperature maximum – see "Engine cylinder head maximum temperature" above
Threadlock – read this important page on threadlock and how to use it and when NOT to use it.
Timing – see "Ignition timing" above
Weight, dry – 24 kg (53 lb) manual
start, no fuel, includes the complete Miniplane frame. Add 1.1 kg (2.4 lb.) for electric start
Torque values for the Minari – This handy page was created by Frank Hoffmann and was gathered from experience and the values given on page EN17 of the Minari User Guide. The Minari guide is not very useful because it has too many values missing and some errors e.g. "carter screws" should be "starter screws". NOTE: The exhaust nuts (#18) are prone to loosening. Use RED threadlock on them and safety wire. The safety wire will ensure that the nuts holding the exhaust manifold assembly will not fall off.
Go to the Top 80 specification page to read the torque section if you cannot find the value you need in Frank's page or in the Minari User Guide. The Top 80 page has a discussion on torque and why different value must be used sometimes.
The Italian paramotor manufacturers continue to use button-head screws on their engines, regardless whether they are needed or not. Button-head screws have soft heads which make them very easy to strip with a hex bit when attempting to remove them. Replace them with hex-head or socket-head screws, as necessary.
If you do not see the torque for a particular screw, bolt, or nut in Frank's table, use the general values below:
- M4 2 Nm (use caution with these small fasteners)
- M5 4 Nm
- M6 10 Nm
- M7 15 Nm
- M8 20 Nm
This maintenance schedule here is for average use. If you run at full power most of the time, fly near the ocean, or launch from sandy areas, you may have to check and replace things more often.
Use a Sharpie to write reminders on the top of the redrive (or other semi-flat area). They are easily removed/changed with mineral spirits. This way, you won't forget. You have an hour meter/tachometer installed right?
ALWAYS check the torque of the cylinder head nuts after a few hours on new engines or engines that have had cylinder head maintenance!
First 1 hour
Belt tension – new belts loosen up very quickly and must be re-tensioned after an hour or two use.
- Head nuts not properly torqued down (20 Nm).
- Studs in engine not installed with red threadlock: Exhaust port studs should be checked for threadlock. If they can be easily removed, they WILL come out at the most inconvenient time.
- Muffler mounting screws – Remove them, put blue threadlock on them, and reassemble. DO NOT OVERTORQUE! The threadlock is what holds the screw in place.
Every year (minimum)
- Rebuild the carburetor, including replacing the pop-off spring.
- Replace the fuel filter.
- Replace the spark plug.
- Check the ignition.
- Replace fuel system hoses if ethanol gasoline is used and the hoses are stiff.
- Check the torque of the cylinder head nuts, especially if you run your engine at or near sea level.
- Closely examine the ignition wiring and connectors and make sure there are no broken or loose wires. Italian wiring is usually poorly done with non-automotive connectors.
Every 15 hours
- Change spark plug if AVGAS must be used
Every 25 hours
- Change spark plug
- Rebuild the carburetor – pilots would be surprised how at quickly the guts of these diaphragm carburetors go bad
- Check the starter pawls on the manual starter
- Check and clean the air filter
- Check/replace the exhaust springs (make sure they are secured so they do not go into the propeller if they break and come loose)
- Disassemble the two joints of the exhaust, clean and lubricate
Every 50 hours*
- Replace the manual starter rope if frayed
- Replace the drive belt if there are any signs of wear
- Replace the engine and exhaust rubber mounts if there are any signs of them coming loose or they are cracked
- Check the airbox rubber sleeve for wear and/or cracking
Every 100 hours
- Check condition of clutch assembly and clutch bell
- De-carbon the combustion chamber and replace cylinder head gasket. Alex Varv shows how to do it without removing the cylinder. However, I do not recommend using any sealant between the cylinder and cylinder head. I have never had a head leak when the "O" ring is new and installed properly. Failure to routinely remove deposits will increase compression, combustion temperatures, and will shorten engine life. If unleaded fuel is used, this maintenance may be done every 100 hrs.
- Clean decompression port
Every 200 hours
- Replace piston (correct size) and rings – Minari recommends that the piston (including the upper connecting rod bearing) be replaced every 200 hours. This is a very important task and must be done. Failure of this bearing will destroy the entire top end of the engine, including the connecting rod and crankshaft. Here is some how-to about this service.
- Replace reed valve petals
- Replace propeller hub bearings
- Replace clutch bell bearings
Every 400 hours
- Replace crankshaft, bearings and seals
*Every 50 hours if AVGAS is used
- Check the decompression port (DCP) and clean it, if needed. Failure to clean the DCP will result in greatly increased effort needed to start the engine and will cause premature wear of the starter system.
- Remove carbon and/or lead deposits from the top of piston and cylinder head.
Reed petal note: You do not want the petals breaking off and going through the engine as here. Photo courtesy of Tom Bird