Modifying the fixed high speed jet in a 2 stroke paramotor
By Had Robinson
updated September 19, 2022
The instructions below are for making a TEMPORARY modification of the main jet of a WG-8 including any clones of this carburetor.
This is done using tiny strands of easily available copper wire. The strands of wire DECREASE the jet size. It is rare that pilots need to INCREASE the jet size because engine manufacturers (all Italian) always install fixed main jets that are sized for operation at sea level running at wide open throttle. When we operate at higher altitudes, the fuel mixture becomes richer and the engine consumes more fuel and nearly always "4 cycles", especially in the midrange. 4 cycling is annoying because the engine runs roughly and also tends to surge. Decreasing the jet size solves this problem but, however, too much of a decrease will lean out the fuel mixture so that the engine overheats at wide open throttle (WOT). You must know the maximum operating temperature of your engine when decreasing the main jet size. This, of course, requires that the engine has a cylinder head temperature gauge (CHT).
Southwest Airsports has developed a system called the FSM which allows the main jet to be significantly decreased in size without causing overheating at WOT. It is still being evaluated by pilots around the globe but should be available soon.
The purpose of this modification is to correct the main jet for a particular altitude, temperature, humidity, and/or fuel and oil type. With the method below, you can safely modify a jet of any type of carburetor to see which size works the best. The downside is that it is difficult to know what the final and functional size of the jet is? It will not harm the existing jet. The modification can be reversed quickly with ordinary tools. The only drawback is that you cannot increase the jet size, only decrease it. But this is rarely a problem as main jets are calibrated for sea level and when we fly at higher altitudes the jet size needs to be decreased. However, operating in colder air requires a larger jet because of an increase in fuel and oil viscosity.
It is always better to have a non-modified main jet. Just unscrew the original main jet and replace it with the exact
size you need. We can supply any jet size required (they are custom machined in our shop).
An alternative way to adjust the high range is
to change the pop-off pressure. Changing the pop-off pressure by changing out the spring is difficult because the range of springs available is limited and accurately measuring and evaluating the force of the spring
is not practical. Adding shims under the spring is more predictable but the entire range of the fuel/air ratio is changed. That is, the midrange may run too lean if the high
range is leaned out and vice versa. For these reasons, I do not
recommend changing out or modifying the OEM metering lever spring or adding shims.
Carburetors that have an adjustable main jet (e.g., WB-37) are easy to adjust but more and more manufacturers are putting seals on the high speed needle jet so pilots will not lean out the engine causing overheating and, often enough, burn up the engine. It is an expensive problem to fix, usually requiring a complete top end replacement.
DO NOT MAKE CHANGES TO THE MAIN JET UNLESS THERE IS A CYLINDER TEMPERATURE GAUGE INSTALLED ON THE ENGINE. It is easy to burn up engines. My
workbench is littered with them. Remember that this method is not precise and requires vigilance and care to make sure that engine does not
overheat.
Supplies needed
#30 or #27 AWG magnet wire insulated or non-insulated (the paint insulation will eventually be dissolved by the fuel running through it). You can always use what you have on hand but you must have some means of measuring its diameter e.g. a digital caliper. Any copper wire will do as long as you know its size and it is small enough. Electronics supply stores generally have magnet wire in stock. Ordinary lamp cord often has strands that are very close to the right size i.e. #27.
A jewelers loupe or magnifying glasses – you must be able to carefully see what you are doing.
Here is complete list of the cross sectional area of various wire sizes. Here are some samples of the cross sectional area of magnet wire in mm2:
#30 – 0.0509 mm2
#27 – 0.102 mm2 – This is the ideal size as its insertion in the jet will reduce the jet size by about 5 with the larger jet sizes (>100).
#22 – 0.326 mm2
1. Determine the jet size that you will probably need
It is a good rule of thumb to decrease the main jet size by 2 (0.02 mm). So, if the existing jet size is 112, decrease it to 110. It is generally unnecessary to remove the carburetor from the engine. On the WG-8 and all of its variants, simple remove the (4) screws that attach the metering lever diaphragm plate to the top of the carburetor. Carefully peal off the diaphragm and gasket and the main jet is right there. Be certain to use the correct sized screwdriver to remove the jet. The tip should fit almost tightly in the slot of the jet and be at least as wide as the jet. If you do not do this, you may ruin the jet!
This chart has the correction values for operating at higher altitudes. For example, your existing main jet is a size #170 and you fly at sea level. Now you want to run your paramotor at 4,500’ MSL 86ºF. According to the table, the conversion factor is 0.94. 0.94 x 170 = 159.8 The nearest whole jet size would be a #160. This is the approximate jet size you would need. The chart has additional notes on the effects of humidity on jet sizing.
It should be apparent that sizing the main jet might require some experimentation and this is why making a temporary modification of the main jet is desirable. As far we know, no one in the industry makes custom jets for the WG-8 except Southwest Airsports – but they are handmade on machines and are expensive. Once you are certain that the temporary main jet works, you can order a permanent jet from us, if desired.
It is important that you carefully check whether your engine is running too lean after any modification of the jet size. Use a CHT (cylinder head temperature) or an EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauge. The EGT is the best to use because of its quick response which will help prevent the pilot from leaning down the engine too far and burning it up. However, it is difficult to install. The CHT, on the other hand, is easy to install but it has a slow response and, accordingly, must be used carefully. Be patient and NEVER do any radical changes to the jet size. Only increase the load on the engine SLOWLY so the CHT can catch up. The TTO Temperature Digital Gauge is an inexpensive CHT that will do the job. It is available from Miniplane USA. Running an engine too lean at full throttle can burn it up quickly.
NEVER BE IN A HURRY WHILE CHANGING THE JET SIZE!
2. Determine how many strands of wire are needed to decrease the jet size
We need to know the cross sectional area (CSA)
of the original and the proposed jet sizes as this is what determines how
much fuel flows through the jet. (Refer to this this chart for the CSA of standard jets.) When we know the difference
between the two sizes, we can reduce the jet size by inserting strands of
fine wire in the jet. In the example above, we want to reduce the jet
size from a #170 (2.27mm2) to #160 (2.01mm2). 2.27mm2 - 2.01mm2 =
0.26mm2. #30 wire has a CSA of 0.0511mm2. 0.26mm2/0.051mm2 = 5
strands of #30 wire would be needed in the throat of the jet.
The
addition of multiple strands of wire and the method to keep it in place will
decrease the effective CSA of the original jet a bit more – about 15%. So,
in the above example, try 4 strands of the #30 wire and see how the engine
runs.
Generally, a single strand of #30 magnet wire will reduce the
jet size by about 2 and #27 will reduce it by 5.
3. Add the wire to the jet
Carefully remove the main jet from the carburetor using a premium
screwdriver that has a perfectly flat blade or use one that has small
horizontal ridges up and down the tip, like Sears Craftsman screwdrivers.
Do NOT use the poor quality screwdrivers sold at auto supply stores.
Make sure the blade completely fills the slot of the jet (that it is exactly
the width and length of the slot). This way you will not strip the
slot when you remove the jet. Press the blade firmly into the slot and
just turn it a little. It should break free easily. If it does
not, apply a little WD40 or equivalent. If you have a micro-torch, you
can quickly heat the carburetor body for a few seconds.
Note which
side of the jet housing has the most space. Usually, the jet screws
into a hollow space that has less clearance than the top of the jet housing.
However, with the Walbro, the diaphragm is right above the jet so the
greater clearance is below the jet in the housing.
The arrow in the
photo below points to the main jet in a Walbro. (Note that some Walbro's have
an adjustable main jet, unlike here.) If you look carefully you can see the
loop of magnet wire coming out of the top of the jet.
Below is the main jet from the Walbro above with 2 strands of magnet wire. The loop is just visible in the upper left and is folded down next to the jet. If it had been only a single strand that was needed, there would be coils at both ends. The coils (about 1 mm in diameter) are visible to the lower right. They should be centered over the hole in the jet.
Cut about 1½” of the wire needed so you have slack to work with. If it is more than one strand, cut enough of the wire so that it will make loops that are about 1½” long as in the photo below. This modification required 2 strands of wire. The loop end, in this case, will be placed at the particular end of the jet that has minimum space.
If it is only a single strand, you must first make a coil at one end similar to the photo below by using a small drill bit (1/32” or smaller) or a toothpick. If 2 wires are needed, you won't have to do this as the loop will keep the wire from slipping out at that end. Now, feed the wire through the jet. Take the wire that is now coming out and wrap it around the drill bit a few times. You can work the wire so that the coils are tight and close to the jet opening. Remove the bit. In the photo below, there would ordinarily be a jet between the coils and the loop but it is not shown here for clarity.
Use a very fine pair of wire cutters to trim all but 1 or 2 coils from the wire.
You’re done
CAREFULLY re-install the jet back into the carburetor.
The blade tip of the screwdriver can be manipulated around the magnet wire
with care so that the blade does not cut the wire. If necessary, use a
slightly smaller screwdriver. Make sure that the wire does not get
caught in the threads while inserting the jet into the carburetor housing.
If you ever have to go back to the original jet size, it’s easy to fix.
If you make a mistake, just start over.
Test run the engine to be sure that you have not leaned out the mixture too far. Be sure not exceed the CHT of the engine.
